Where is the street food in Lisbon actually good?

The honest anchors are Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market) on the waterfront and Feira da Ladra, the Tuesday and Saturday flea market in Alfama where vendors sell bifanas and grilled sardines from simple stalls. For everyday eating, the tascas around Intendente and Mouraria punch well above their price: a prato do dia with soup, main, and wine runs €8-10 and the food is cooked rather than assembled. Cervejaria Ramiro on Avenida Almirante Reis is the definitive shellfish stop, though it's a restaurant, not a stall. The best street-format eating is actually the pastelarias: Manteigaria on Rua do Loreto does a pastéis de nata that's worth the short queue, custard still warm from the oven, and a coffee at the counter costs under €2. Avoid anything on the Alfama tourist drag near the viewpoints, where the sardines are expensive and frequently frozen.

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