What does a local breakfast look like in Lisbon?
A proper Lisbon breakfast is small, fast, and taken standing at a counter. The default order is a *bica* (a short, dark espresso, sharper than Italian espresso) and a *pastel de nata* — the custard tart with a caramelized, slightly blistered top — or a *torrada*, which is thick-cut toast, usually sourdough, butterflied open and loaded with enough butter to be mildly alarming. Some people add a *carioca* (a weaker coffee made by passing water through used grounds) or a *galão* (a tall, milky coffee in a glass) if they want something longer. You'll pay roughly €1.20 to €2.50 for the whole thing depending on the neighborhood — Mouraria and Intendente run cheaper than Chiado or Príncipe Real. Locals eat between 7:30 and 9:30, rarely linger, and almost never order juice. The tarts are best warm, and any café that has them fresh from the oven before 9 a.m. is worth a second visit.
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