The Masthead

Essays

Four to six times a year, one of our writers spends a week in one place and writes about it at length. No listicles, no rankings, no SEO ballast. Just the piece.

  1. A tiled Lisbon facade in low afternoon light, a woman leaning from a first-floor window

    Lisbon, Portugal

    The Lisbon Hours

    A week of mornings, afternoons, and late nights in a city that keeps its own time. Essay by Margot Verhoeven; photographs by Inês Oliveira.

    30 min read · April 2026

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