7-day Tokyo, Japan itinerary

Either works. Pick up a Suica or Pasmo card at the airport station — every train, bus, and konbini takes it.

Shinjuku's smoke-and-yakitori alley. Sit down at whichever counter looks least performative for tourists.

One drink at one bar. Most have a cover charge (¥500–1000). Pick a bar with the door open.

Not the inner market (that moved to Toyosu). Come hungry. Standouts: the tamagoyaki stalls, Sushi Dai imitators, tuna donburi.

Walk over from Tsukiji. Matcha in the teahouse on the pond.

Itoya (12-floor stationery temple), Ginza Six for the food hall. Skip if you're not into department stores.

Get here at opening (6am-ish in summer, later in winter). The forest walk is the point.

Takeshita Street once, quickly. Then walk Omotesando for the architecture: Prada by Herzog & de Meuron, Tod's by Ito.

The garden is the reason. Small entrance, easy to miss on Aoyama.

Sunset slot, book 2 weeks ahead. The open-air deck is worth it.

Book online, 90 minutes total. Wear shorts or roll pants — you're walking through water.

The morning auction is the sushi people's pilgrimage, but the observation deck is free and open until 2pm.

Optional. Skip unless you want the Gundam statue or the Miraikan science museum.

Old Tokyo. Yanaka Ginza market, Nezu Shrine, Yanaka Cemetery. Slow, low-key day.

Contemporary art in a converted sento in Yanaka. Small but consistently good.

Walk over from Yanaka. Tokyo National Museum if it's raining; the park itself if not.

Do less. Repeat something you liked. Sento (Kōgane-yu in Sumida is easy for foreigners). Wander Shimokitazawa. Nap.

Isetan Shinjuku's basement. Buy your last bento here for the ride to the airport. Better than anything you'll eat on the plane.