5-day Kyoto, Japan itinerary

Nozomi doesn't accept the JR Pass — take Hikari (only 20 min slower). Reserved seat, right side (Mt Fuji view around Shizuoka).

Late-afternoon stroll — the market is winding down but the food stalls hit peak. Tako tamago, hamo tempura, warabi mochi.

The lanterned alley along the river. Have a beer at Beer Komachi if it's the season.

Start at 6am. Serious — the shrine is fully open, empty, and the light through the vermilion torii is the shot everyone's trying to get later in day-crowds.

Adjacent stop on the way back. Zen rock gardens, ideal in maple season (mid-Nov).

You earned it after 6am.

First train, before the tour buses. The grove itself is a 10-minute walk; do the Sagano scenic loop for the rest of the morning.

The garden survives from the 14th century. Sit and be still on the veranda for at least 20 minutes.

Skip if you're monkeyed-out. Otherwise, 20 min hike up, wild macaques with the city view.

Lunch. Tofu hot pot in the traditional style. Set menu only.

The Silver Pavilion is less about the pavilion, more about the moss garden and the sand mound. Walk south along the canal from there.

End of the Philosopher's Path. The aqueduct is unexpectedly beautiful; the sub-temples (Konchi-in) are quieter than the main.

Farmhouse udon. Lunch, near Ginkakuji.

Save for early morning of your last day. Walk up through the Higashiyama district before the shops open — the streets themselves are the reason.

The old textile district north of the center. Orinasukan for the loom demonstration if it's open.