6-day Buenos Aires, Argentina itinerary

Get pesos at a cueva (Blue Rate is 2-3x the official rate — ask your hotel where to go, don't wire from home).

First dinner. San Telmo institution — chef Lele on the pass. Beef, wine, done.

Free tour Tues/Thurs at 11am in English. The Duarte crypt (Evita) is the pilgrimage but the labyrinth itself is the reason.

Latin American modern art. Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Xul Solar. Two hours max.

Book 3+ weeks ahead. Bife de chorizo, provoleta, wait list wine at the door. World's best steakhouse in the eyes of a lot of people.

Sunday only. Defensa street closes for 12 blocks — antiques, street food, tango buskers.

1830 mansion built over underground tunnels. Guided tour only. Wildly underrated.

Sunday tango, real dancers not tourists. Salon Canning venue. Watch first, dance later if you can.

Come for the color, leave before dark. Stay on the main tourist blocks — the neighborhood off the main strip isn't safe for wandering.

The Spanish-colonial museum most guides miss. In Belgrano. Andalusian garden inside.

Set-menu tasting. Small, deliberate, a step below the flagship at a third the price.

Train from Retiro to Tigre (1 hour). Boat around the delta islands. Empanadas at Puerto de Frutos on the way back.

Touristy but historic. Coffee, submarino, no need to eat.

Cerveza on Plaza Serrano, dinner at Proper (small, no menu, tell them your allergies).