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Where is the street food in Rome actually good?

— TRIP FRIEND

The reliable spots are concentrated in Testaccio and Trastevere. In Testaccio, the covered market on Via Aldo Manuzio houses Mordi e Vai, a counter run by Sergio Esposito serving braised offal sandwiches — specifically the nervetti and the coda alla vaccinara — that represent the actual Roman working-class tradition rather than a performance of it. For supplì, the fried rice balls that are Rome's answer to arancini, Roma Sparita in Trastevere and Supplì Roma on Via San Francesco a Ripa both fry to order and charge around two euros a piece. Pizza al taglio is done well at Pizzarium (Gabriele Bonci's place near the Vatican on Via della Meloria), where toppings rotate seasonally and the dough is worth the detour. Avoid anything within 200 meters of the Colosseum or Piazza Navona entirely — the food is priced for exhaustion and tastes like it. Eat where you see construction workers eating lunch.

151 WORDS · UPDATED AUG 2026
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