Where do locals actually go for aperitivo in Madrid?

Madrid doesn't have the Italian aperitivo tradition in quite the same form, but the functional equivalent is the pre-dinner vermouth hour, called la hora del vermut, which runs roughly 1:00 to 3:00 p.m. on weekends and sometimes weekday afternoons. La Latina is the neighborhood to head to: Bar Melo's on Calle Ave María is an institution, as is the cluster of terrazas around Plaza de la Chumuca. Malasaña offers a slightly younger crowd at places like Bodegas El Maño. The ritual is simple: order a glass of house vermouth (expect to pay around 2.50 to 4 euros), and a small tapa arrives automatically in many places. Serious vermouth drinkers ask for Yzaguirre or Lustau Rojo rather than whatever's on tap. The evening equivalent, roughly 8:00 to 10:00 p.m., involves wine or cañas in Chueca or Lavapiés, but Madrileños treat that as a warm-up to dinner, not a standalone ritual.

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