Nine tables, no reservation, the platonic ideal of a Roman trattoria. Arrive at 6:30 p.m. for the early seating or expect an hour wait. The cacio e pepe is definitive.

The 12th-century basilica on the main piazza has gilded mosaics older than most of Europe. Enter quietly; mass is often in progress.

No frills, locals-plus-students clientele, Peroni on tap for €2.50. The antidote to Rome's aperitivo-industrial complex.

A nearly-hidden bakery on Via della Luce — third-generation family-run, supplying tozzetti to half the neighbourhood since 1920.

Renaissance villa with Raphael frescoes and almost no queue. Closed Sundays; €10 entry. Pair it with a walk up the Gianicolo hill afterwards.

Former garage-turned-cocktail-bar with a broad aperitivo spread. Busy but still locally anchored; come before 8 p.m. for a seat on the terrace.